The Life Nippon - An American In Japan

 

The title link is the inspiration for this post. I regularly read digg.com, and I was surprised to see this guy blogging about Japan. Needless to say his five mistakes for Japan didn't satisfy me. I'm sorry, but getting hosed by a hot girl is the same in Japan as it is in any other country.

As a matter of fact, I'm sure I can come up with a better list. A longer list. A more... Japanese list.

10. Assume the bathroom is Western Style - You're going to have to go at some point. Number two, really bad, and in an unfamiliar place. You'll be so happy that you were able to find the bathroom, (or toilet as its called here) that you'll forget about the sometimes primitive facilities. You'll go inside and open the stall door--but no toilet will be there. Its almost crazy enough to be some kind of college prank. Instead of a toilet, theres literally a hole in the floor. A porcelain hole, but a hole nonetheless. Good luck using it without completely disrobing.

9. Train line shenanigans - I assume that taking the train is going to be much easier for New Yorkers. People familiar with mass transportation. But the vast majority of us are used to driving to where we need to go. The train is going to present some challenges. You'll definitely, at some point, buy a ticket for the wrong train line. Or else you'll have the proper train line but not know which platform number. You might be at the correct platform, but take a train in the opposite direction. You might take the correct line, platform and direction, but take a "Super Commuter Express" which skips over your stop, because you really wanted the "Commuter Rapid." And even if you got all that right, you still might have gotten into a very nice looking green car. They're always conveniently located close to the stairs, right in the middle of the platform. The green cars are spacious, and everybody gets to sit down. Then some stranger is going to come to you and make you fork over three thousand yen ($30) or more for the privilege. Green cars are for the rich people, that means not you.

8. The letters "so" and "n" - You've already studied some Japanese. You know that they have katakana and hiragana. You also probably think that you've mastered those two alphabets. Then you'll look at some real world signs and have a second guess. Directly next to my house is a store called Jason.

I see this sign literally every day, every time I go home or leave home. I see both damn letters, but still I can't tell the two apart. Take a look at the Jason sign. The last two letters are "so" and "n," in that order. Take a good look at it, then look at this real world sign. Would you be able to read it?

7. Your ATM card will work - Yes, your ATM card will work. Technically. You're going to find yourself in Tokyo, desperately needing cash. And while its true your ATM card will work, it certainly won't work at every ATM. Not even most ATMs. As a matter of fact, it won't work at the vast majority of machines in Japan. You will be spending a good half a day locating that one magic ATM that actually accepts your card. The good news is that this ATM will almost certainly have an English button. I seem to remember Narita airport having 'good' ATMs as well.

6. X is famous in Japan - My favorite example of this comes from the news article "Robots Enter Daily Life in Japan." My god how easy it is to lie about Japan to just about any other country. Not only haven't robots entered daily life in Japan. They haven't entered weekly or monthly life. I've been here for two freaking years and I still haven't seen a robot. If you consider my roomba (before it broke) back in the States, Japan actually has less robots. Another great example is the infamous Japan special of Insomniac with Dave Attell. He had so much fun going to the Penis Festival. Those crazy Japanese and their penis festivals. There's only one problem. Nobody in japan knows about it. I've now had the opportunity to ask many, many random people who have been students of mine. If it sounds really crazy, or really popular, there's a good chance nobody's heard of it. And while you're probably not interested in Japan for robots or penis festivals, there is something about Japan that interests you. And they'll have no idea what you're talking about.

UPDATE: I just found this article on Reuters. But its opening up an upcoming post of its own. More on this later.

5. The Starbucks Queue - Okay, we've all spent plenty of time in Starbucks. The stereotypical Starbucks for me was the one in downtown Gainesville. They opened up directly across from Maude's, the local shop. And although there were enough coffee drinking college students to support both shops, I liked Starbucks better. So every time you visit Starbucks, you've probably got some kind of a routine to find a table. Some people wait close to a table of people who appear to be leaving. Others circle the shop like vultures. But as soon as a seat frees up, everybody jumps to grab it. That's how we've been trained. That's what Americans do at Starbucks. But it's not what you wanna do at Starbucks in Japan.
What I'm about to tell you doesn't apply to all Starbucks in Japan. I'm referring specifically to the street level Starbucks closest to Ikebukuro station (consequently, where I'm often spotting playing chess). That Starbucks is particularly busy. And I imagine like all busy Starbucks, they take extra measures to seat their clientèle. When you enter this Starbucks, you'll be greeted by a cute Japanese girl who is going to ask you if you'd like a seat. If you say yes, she'll ask you to wait in line. And if you don't understand Japanese, you'll blow right by her and buy and coffee, that predator instinct awakening inside of you. You won't wait in the line, you won't even notice the line because you've been trained to watch those tables like a hawk, hurriedly grabbing one as soon as its free. Rude gaijin. To add insult to injury, nobody's going to say a word to you about it. If you wanna butt the line, thats A-OK with them. Hopefully, one day, you'll figure it out on your own. Or read the blog of yours truly.

4. Inside or out? - We all know that it is customary to remove your shoes when entering certain establishments in Japan. That's not the mistake you're going to make. But in the area where you're supposed to change your shoes, you're going to see a kind of a wooden palate.

What is the purpose of this palate? Why hadn't anybody mentioned it to you before? I first thought that it was some kind of a mat. That you would use it to wipe the dirt off of your feet. Because dirt certainly could easily fall through it. But as it turns out, that palate counts as being the inside of the house. You're not supposed to step on it. And if you do step on it thinking it counted as being outside, well you've just made the mistake I said you weren't going to make.

3. BYOT & BYOTB - Bring your own towel & Bring your own tooth brush. The Japanese, unlike Americans, actually care about the environment. One of the ways they do this, is by almost never using paper towels. Paper towels in Japan, are a rare gift indeed. Most toilets have air driers. I should add that, by American standards, these air dryers are quite nice. Motion sensor activated and multi directional. But a good number of bathrooms don't even have these. They won't have any way for you to dry your hands, whatsoever. You'll be wiping them on your shirt and pants for years before you'll be organized enough to remember to Bring Your Own Towel.
Japanese also care about dental hygiene. If you come to Japan, you'll probably be working as an ALT, that is, an assistant language teacher at an elementary, JR High or High school. And what does everybody, teachers, principal and students, do after they eat? They all brush their teeth together. But you're not going to bring your toothbrush. Brushing your teeth is an activity most Americans do twice a day at best, at home alone in the bathroom. Even if you don't work as an ALT, because the routine is ingrained in the people at such a young age, the culture continues the practice even in the Japanese Corporate World. So bring a towel and a tooth brush.

2. Dessert and Coffee Sizes - You're going to see your favorite dessert on the menu at some point. And at some point you're going to order it. But what you're ordering is the dessert you remember from your mind. The "American-American" dessert food. What you'll be receiving is the Japanese-American version of the dessert. And its going to be small. Really small. Bite sized even.
This includes the frappucino you order at Starbucks. Remember everything (except beer and shrimp) is smaller here. You're going to order a grande and feel swindled when they give you a tall. But that's the way it is here, everything is a size down. After two years of life here, I can honestly say I've learned to live... smaller.

1. Swastikas - The icon of the Nazis.

We pretty much abandoned anything that looks even remotely like a swastika. They're considered taboo. When you first come to Japan, you'll be surprised to see them. On maps, in car navigation systems. A swastika could possibly be anywhere. But only to the untrained eye. To us, if viewed separately, the two icons would be the same. But what you have to remember is that the Japanese are very skilled at differentiating between icons. To them, the two are completely different. One is the taboo and no longer used swastika. But the other completely different symbol is used to indicate the location of a temple. Why do gaijin keep confusing these two different symbols? One is moving clockwise, the other anti-clockwise. They're mirror images, duh!

Bonus: Dame - This is my own personal mistake. I imagine that anybody familiar with Spanish would make it. And I by no means am fluent in Spanish. But I do know some words, among them, dame. What I picture in my head when I think about the word dame is, two siblings fighting over a toy. The boy snatches the toy away from his sister, and the sister turns to him and says "Da me!" It literally means, "Give me!"
When I heard people saying dame in Japanese, without considering it, I thought I understood. Time and time again, I'd hear people saying dame. Dame when ordering something on a menu. Dame when asked if they'd like this or that. But the funny thing was that they'd never receive what they were asking for. Why didn't that waiter give him what he asked for? Because dame, in Japanese, means "I don't want it."

36 comments

Comment from: Katy [Visitor] Email · http://www.gameluv.com
This is awesome! Some of the stuff I had heard/knew of, but a couple things were new! Entertaining! I wish I could visit Japan!
05/13/08 @ 13:09
Comment from: Peter Oakleaf [Visitor] · http://www.oakleafmarket.com
yowza
05/14/08 @ 12:29
Comment from: Anonymous [Visitor] · http://Anonymous.com
This list is great compared to the other one. It's like you've just listed all the most common mistakes, and i've made almost all of them, and always hear about people with similar problems - and i've lived here for going on 5 years now.
05/14/08 @ 12:58
Comment from: Michelle [Visitor] Email
Ha ha. That was hilarious. Some of the things were really interesting!

Starbucks...I'm not sure if they would be considered polite or mocking you when they didn't tell you anything. But it sure probably wouldn't help at all.

The toilets...I go to Vietnam sometimes, and I can't stand the toilets. Ones like ours are at home, but buildings all have that porcelain hole toilet. It's not bad for guys. But man, it's bad for girls. Whenever I need to go to the bathroom, I have to entirely take off everything, hook it up somewhere or hold it, and go. The first few times, people kept asking me why I was so slow, if I was doing #2...I wanted to die. I still don't know how they do it.
05/14/08 @ 18:00
Comment from: itsalljustaride [Visitor] Email
Wow. This is actually the first such list I've seen that's actually useful and not rife with weeaboo Orientalism. Good show.
05/14/08 @ 19:55
Comment from: D-chi [Visitor] Email
Fascinating. Did not know 99% of this. I, too, would get confused with "dame."
05/14/08 @ 23:27
Comment from: Phoenix [Visitor] Email · http://www.ourpatchwork.com/phoenix
Yea, this list is assuredly better than the one you referenced. Definitely had #10 and #9 happen to me. You get used to the similar-looking katakana eventually. Like kanji, context can help, especially with those really wild scripts you'll see from time to time. Still, katakana really is a blessing to the non-native speaker, especially in those pesky restaurants without picture menus.
05/15/08 @ 02:47
Comment from: R.O. [Visitor] Email · http://blackjapanman.com/
Interesting list, but it is mostly cliches. The biggest mistake people make in Japan is assuming they have rights. There is no habeas corpus. When I see foreigners acting the fool out here, I always wonder if they know how they can get locked up for weeks.
05/15/08 @ 05:01
Forget so and n, shi and tsu blow my mind harder!
05/15/08 @ 07:34
Comment from: Resta [Visitor]
Why do you have to take off all your clothes to use the Japanese style toilets? You just lift, squat and go...no need to make it more complicated than it is and at least you don't have to sit/squat over a gross public western style toilet. I prefer the squatters myself.
05/15/08 @ 09:15
Comment from: billywest [Visitor] Email · http://www.sevententotokyo.com
One big, wrong assumption that a lot of foreigners make is that all other foreigners must love or hate Japan as much as they do.
05/15/08 @ 09:31
Comment from: Mikee [Visitor]
The 'swastika' symbol is called a 'Manji' if I remember correctly. Manji is 'spinning' the opposite AND it's not rotated 45 degrees like the swastika.

Side note: Dungeon 3 of the original Legend of Zelda (Famicom/NES) was a manji and it even made it to the states!
05/15/08 @ 11:24
Comment from: AYAKO [Visitor] Email
"Dame" actually means something more along the lines of "not allowed". It's especially used in cases of parents/teachers telling children what not to do. Or pets. Women usually use it as "Dame desho!" or "Didn't I tell you not to do that before?!"
So, yes, dame is used in a negative context, but unless they changed the usage since 2006, it's not really correct to be used as "I don't want it"
05/15/08 @ 15:37
Comment from: B [Visitor] Email
Another, Spanish/ Japanese confusion is casa...While I was in Japan my teacher asked me if I had my casa....it took me a while to realize he meant umbrella not house ^-^
I didn't really have a problem with the dame thing though
05/15/08 @ 16:27
Yeah Mistake 10 really got me when I visited over the summer. I like how it's either way futuristic awesome toilets or those holes in the ground. Got lucky most of the way through till the end at some mall where I had to use one of the holes haha! Awesome list.
05/15/08 @ 17:20
Comment from: Liz [Visitor] Email
Oh, I don't think the katakana one is that bad. Shi and tsu, so and n. You get used to them. The trick, really, is for shi to remember the line and the dashes line up SIDEWAYS. It's the same for n. It's a little harder to tell but most of the time, the slash does not reach the top of the dash, while in so it does. In fact, in the example of the first sign, the dashes are even going in different directions. I have to use "son" in my name every time I write it in katakana, so I guess I'm used to it.

As for the, uh, second sign... It looks like kantan. Which is sort of a synonym for kirei, I guess. And there's "peeling" there too. A skin cleansing thing? Maybe?

I'm horrible with kanji, so I can't really figure out what those mean.
05/15/08 @ 17:29
This blog is great! The list is really funny, and I truly did learn some things. I'm visiting Japan for a short time on my Semester At Sea voyage in the fall, and I'm very excited about it. I will continue to check back daily. Also, this blog has got me thinking that maybe I should search for lists like this that would inform me about other countries I'm visiting. Thanks again, keep blogging.
05/15/08 @ 20:30
Comment from: Kate [Visitor] Email · http://kate-san.diaryland.com
HELL YES. Hell yes to all of that. Especially toilets, tiny desserts, and Starbucks. My friends and I always went to Starbucks after class. We'd always scope out a table, take it, and then get in line to order our drinks. But one day a little Japanese woman was waiting for us - she spoke English to us, of course, because OF COURSE none of us are fluent in Japanese. Never mind that her English was an ABOMINATION. Anyway, she told us to get in line, and I was fuming over the injustice of it all. I was in Japan a couple years, but for some reason that really pissed me off. At Starbucks and in parking lots, it's the SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST.

05/17/08 @ 23:46
Comment from: Jesse [Visitor] Email · http://jesseblogs.blogspot.com
I love it...Japan sounds interesting,wish I could visit it one day.I must say here in south africa we have our own little quirks,perhaps I should write a lise lol ! Love yours... :)
05/18/08 @ 06:16
Comment from: Michelle [Visitor] Email
@Resta-

That's what people told me to do too. I'm just really not used to it. I guess wherever you're from, what you're used to is what you think is better. What if I'm wearing jeans? Panties? It's awkward.

I really want to go to Japan someday. It sounds amazingly interesting.
05/18/08 @ 21:12
Comment from: Pat [Visitor] · http://destinationthailand.org
very interesting!
05/19/08 @ 07:44
Comment from: Sarah [Visitor] Email
Are you an English teacher? I don't know if you have realized this, but you have mistakenly (I hope) used the word "desert" instead of "dessert". Entirely different meanings. Other than that, very informative blog! :)
05/24/08 @ 20:28
Comment from: Aine Sheehan [Visitor] Email
This is going to kill me not knowing! what is ディスカウントストア? all im getting back is deisukaunsutoa and i dont get it! ((its above the Jason sign))

Awesome list BTW
05/29/08 @ 15:19
Comment from: Jay [Visitor] Email · http://www.tokyovideo.tv/
Lots of good stuff here most of which I had to figure out on my own from a couple of visits to Japan. Very useful to those planning on visiting.

The Starbucks thing can also apply to other places as well such as Mosburger, for example. However, the cup sizes are the same (Grande 480cc is 16oz) but they include the "short" size which throws most gaijin off.
05/31/08 @ 18:14
Comment from: Stephanie [Visitor] Email
Aine Sheehan:

The katakana is "discount store".

Say it a couple of times and you'll hear it. ;)

Hope that helps!
06/13/08 @ 12:52
Comment from: newyorkdude [Visitor] Email · http://newyorkdudeinindia.blogspot.com
Great job on your list!!! Being a NYer who's been to Japan and India, let me add:

1) Many Indians resent German use of the swastika, which they consider an ancient Hindu symbol. There are swastikas all over India. A common family name in India is Swastik. I've got a few entries on this issue on my blog newyorkdudeinindia.blogspot.com.

2) Poor Indian women (lowest caste, even though caste is supposed to be illegal anymore) wear no undies. They just lift and squat. Sometimes in public, but that's so un-Japanese it doesn't belong on a Japanese blog.
06/14/08 @ 12:37
Comment from: Casey [Visitor] Email
ディスカウントストア

discount store
06/15/08 @ 00:36
Comment from: Martin [Visitor] Email
very true, all of them! i had the same problem with the katakana "so" ana "n", as well as "shi" and "tsu". until a friend gave me a nice hint:

when you see a character that looks like one of the two, look at the upper right corner first. if the line coming from the lower left corner goes until the top, it is a "so" (or "tsu", if it has two dots). if it doesn't go until the very upper right end, it is a "n" (or "shi").
06/15/08 @ 04:23
Comment from: Anon [Visitor] Email
I've learned dame to mean "no good".
06/16/08 @ 16:35
Comment from: Zak [Visitor] Email
I think you'll find that the symbol representing a swastika is used for temples because it used to be the religious symbol for Buddhism.
Newyorkdude: most Indians probably resent the swastika as India is the country where Buddhism began, and it probably insults them greatly that they had to change their religious symbol because of the Nazis. The Nazis took the symbol and flipped it to create their own symbol; what almost everyone nowadays knows as the swastika.

Therefore it makes sense that it be used for temples; it is the religious symbol of Buddhism and temples are religious places.
06/17/08 @ 10:51
Comment from: ジェイソン (Jason) [Visitor] Email · http://www.j2fi.net/
Hmm ... Starbucks is just a bit different where I live, but I'm glad that I can understand enough Japanese to get around these awkward situations.

"so" and "n" certainly take a bit to get used to but, as my name is also Jason, I've had ample practice with the two.

It's a shame you didn't share with us how to use the "hole in the ground" ... there have been a few times that I've almost been desperate enough to use them, but I've managed to go almost a whole year without. There is no way I'm going to take my pants off and leave myself wide open for some kind of weird "bathroom story" at some point.

"You know, son ... one day I was using the toilet at Ikeshita and, well ... you know those squat toilets are low ... so I tried my best and only got a little bit on my ankle. So the key is: when you're in a pinch, stick to what you know."

Great article. Stumbled :)
06/17/08 @ 11:11
Comment from: Jason [Visitor] Email · http://gaijinhousejapan.com
oooooh...small meals are the only things that still bother me in Japan. I have high motabloism (is that how you spell it) anyway I need to eat a ton just to stay at the bottom of my weight scale. Japan is not the place for those who love to eat...lot's! Some places have huge dishes but they are rare and far between. Also at parties or when you eat out at friends its frowned upon to eat the whole appetizer in 1 bite haha
07/06/08 @ 00:49
Comment from: Andrew. [Visitor] Email
I was pretty dumb in Japan. I moved from Minnesota, a state with NO train service to Osaka and lived there for two year. Every train platform, aside from ones out in the countryside, were labled in English and the rail system maps were also in English. It took me forever to figure out how to get anywhere I wanted to go in the greater Kansai area.

The Swastika...c'mon. So many ignorant gaijin not to know that the swastika, when not tilted, is a buddhist/hindu symbol for peace. I wear a swastika pin from a temple in Hyogo every day on my courier bag and people gave me shit for being a Nazi.

I sucked at living in Japan.
07/22/08 @ 17:50
Comment from: m00ndog [Visitor] Email
Been in Japan 25 years so it's been a while since I made any of those mistakes. But I wonder why you limit your confusion to _so_ and _n_. Perhaps you can read this:

ガソリン

And I'm reminded of my favorite Okinawan beverage:

オリオン

Enjoy your stay. :-)
10/11/08 @ 12:11
Comment from: the amazing me [Visitor] Email
I was so confused the first time I used the bathroom in Japanese. Both me and my friend made the mistake and were very embarrassed.
We are used to having the taller part of the toilet behind us when we sit down, so that's the way we faced when we crouched down. However because of that we ended up peeing a little bit outside the bowl. It sucked. lol
10/13/08 @ 19:42
Comment from: Michael [Visitor] · http://emuu.net
A good list, you've covered some of the ones I get all the time.

My wife is threatening to make a book of all the mistakes I make as a foreigner. It probably all started when I told her, "真理ーちゃん きらい です" instead of "真理ーちゃん きれい です".
02/23/09 @ 07:40

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